Ajiaco Criollo con Bolitas de Maíz (Creole Stew with Corn Balls)

This is the first appearance of our new column on traditional Cuban cooking. The recipes come from Cuban writer Reynaldo González’ excellent book échale salsita!

This dish is made up of root vegetables and others, and different kinds of meat. It’s a truly typical banquet, and is called "Creole" because of the mixture of tastes inherited from Europe and Africa, yet grown with a marked differentiation, distinctly Caribbean. That’s why some consider ajiaco representative of the mixture of races which has shaped Cuba’s population.

There are as many variations of ajiaco as regions and provinces. Even homes proudly present their own special stew recipes. Originally, it was a country dish but with time, it took root in the cities as well. Even at the beginning of the 20th century ajiaco would still be cooked in town patios over coals, starting with a boar’s head in boiling water, much as it used to be during colonial times. Nowadays, more modest versions have emerged. What follows is one of these simpler recipes.

1/2 lb. beef jerky
1 small chicken
1 lb. beef
1 lb. pork
2 ears of corn
1 lb. yams
2 plantains
1/2 lb. malanga
1/2 lb. yucca
1/2 lb. sweet potato
2 ripe bananas
1/2 lb. squash or pumpkin
2 tbsp. pork fat
1 large onion
3 cloves of garlic
1 large pepper
1 C. tomato sauce
7 liters of water
juice of 2 limes
salt to taste

Cut the jerky in pieces and soak in water overnight. Take it out of the water and put it in a big pot, with the chicken sliced in two. Boil for an hour. Add the beef and the pork meat, chopped in small pieces, and continue to boil for another hour. As it boils, remove the foam and fat. Fry the onion, garlic, and seasonings and add. Peel and chop the tubers and add in the order in which they appear in the recipe. The lime juice adds to the flavor and cuts the fat. For a thicker consistency, put some malanga and yams on the side and boil in a broth. Then add to the main pot.

Bolitas de Maíz

Some cooks add little balls of grated corn. Here’s the recipe.

1 large cup of grated corn
1 tsp. salt
2 tblsps. milk
2 tblsps. pork fat
2 cloves of garlic, mashed

Mix everything into a mass and shape small balls of the mixture, dropping them into the stew. Don’t stir until the balls have become firm.